@koz

Interesting, I never knew that. Because damn, I flashed some dank firmware to my #Creality #CR6SE.

It might just be to help protect users and almost help to ensure warrenty. But does this also hold for all other #Prusa printers? Is this why fewer users are running #Klipper on #MK3 and #MK4?

@3dprinting #3dprinting

Has anyone implemented the #Klicky #Klipper ABL mod? I've been considering replacing my stock load cell ABL on my #Creality #CR6SE running Klipper with it because it is more affordable than a #BLTouch. Inwould just like more honest feedback and reviews than you would get from #Youtube channels.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@geekandi @infosecdj @OttersDangerDen @astrovore

The guys on the #CR6SE Discord finally answered. They day there are trim pots on the stock board that I can adjust to reduce the current, but it isn't possible with software.

So I think I'll open the printer, meausre all of the motor currents, then adjust them. If I mess anything up, I can just go back to the old values.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@OttersDangerDen

I am using the stock #Creality #CR6SE setup and board, with stock motors and drivers. I have asked on your CR6SE community discord now whether it is possible.

@infosecdj @geekandi

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@jmw

#TeachingTech on Youtube has a video for #Creality #CR6SE style leveling, which is what I have, for the #Ender3

https://youtu.be/hs6IVfNrf5k

Load cell leveling is great, I use it, but it can have its quirks. Just make sure that the bowden tube doesn't mess with the sensor. If you have a direct drive, then I think it would be one of the best solutions if you don't have the flexibility of a #Voron #Stealthburner.

@3dprinting #3dprinting #Klipper

@nilsding

Just to make sure, you are running #Klipper here with the native Klipper LCD support? That is also the default #Ender3 display, right?

It really looks great! I just love the icon for the nozzle, it looks very good. I've been wondering if I want to go for a touch screen and #KlipperScreen or just for an LCD display like this. I have a #Creality #CR6SE, so my fisplay is currently not working with Klipper.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@geekandi

The #Creality #CR6SE had a large footprint because it is a bed slinger, so to enclose it completely, I have an 80x80x80 enclosure around it. That's a lot of air. For fast high prints, using the bed is too slow.

I pf course overkilled it, and it isn't necessary, but I can set a temperature from room temperature to 60°C and it is automatically controlled.

So, because I can😂

@3dprinting #3dprinting

I also upgraded to an all metal extruder for my #Creality #CR6SE because mine was about 3 years old, and the gears required some maintenance. Suppringly, this entire kit was cheaper than the gears and capricorn tube alone, so I just went for it.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@amd

Official #Prusa: https://discord.gg/prusa3d

Official #Klipper: https://discord.klipper3d.org/

Official #VoidStarLabs (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/voidstarlab

Official #Octoprint: https://discord.gg/ThTbRmXC

Community #Creality #CR6SE focussed: https://discord.gg/M635Kzpc

Official #Marlin: https://discord.gg/dEAjzur9

Official #ModBot (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/NEpd2A5ACe

Official #Nero3D (#Youtube): @3dprinting #3dprinting

Official #SteveBuilds (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog

Official #247Printing (#Youtube): https://discord.gg/zerog

Official #LostInTech (#Youtube): https://discord.com/invite/tQQPNSCTKP

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@drawks @fabbaloo

I love the building and tinkering, debugging, and struggles. It is how I spend my late nights when I can't sleep or on a rainy day.

That being said, I wouldn't mine an ol' reliable #Bambulab #X1C just to have for when I need something quick.

I have found myself while designing a new hotend for my #Creality #CR6SE in #Fusion360 that it didn't fit, and I had to put everything back again just to print a file again.

So another printer for that would be fun, but working on a printer is like working on a car with your father in the garage. You never finish it, but the journey is priceless, and one day, the first drive is so rewarding. You just sit back with a bear and smile at what you have created.

I do this every night. When it is late, I just turn on my enclosure LEDs in my dark room and stare at my wiring.

I have no circuit diagrams or plans. The entire thing is mine, and in my head

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@RobeeShepherd

So, as our #Creality #CR6SE boards started aging andnbreakingnm, we've had to reverse engineered the circuit in or do our own implementstionsml. Ehre Infeelbthey could habe given thatto us.

The #Voron andn #MK3 is probably the only truly #opensource printers.

@geekandi@tooting

Although #3dprinters such as the #Creality #Ender3 and #CR6SE are #opensource, it is only due to the lisencing of the #firmware such as #Marlin and #Klipper.

So Creality released the sourcecode for the #SonicPad, be it with resistance, and after a while, because they had to because of #Klipper.

However. For the hotend of the CR6SE the used a load cell sensor, which could only communicate with #Marlin at that time if it wad emulated to bena different sensor, so they created an additional #PCB connected to the hotend that does this. Because this was their technology, it was colose source, and the cabling was also weird.

Then I think the #ArtilleryHornet had a USB-C cable for its hotendz, which seemed nice at the time, but it was a non-standard and closed source.

@RobeeShepherd

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@geekandi

I stayed with #Marlin this long, just out of comfort. Like, I just didn't want to make the move. But after building my automated enclosure and having my #RaspberryPi dedicated to it now, I could just as well.

Also, I have a #Creality #CR6SE, so with a bed slinger, I am anyway limited in speed and performance. I think I just tried it now because I have the know-how and experience.

@RobeeShepherd

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@xerxesshouldnthavewon

If it is not 32-bit, it would benefit the most. 32-bit boards are faster and more accurate, so this would benefit all printers and have the most benefit if you have an 8-bit board.

All prints in this thread were done on a #Creality #CR6SE, which is 32-bit, and you can see the increased performance. So imagine on an 8-bit.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@rcarmo

There is #KlipperScreen for #Klipper. One of my reasons that I haven't moved over to #Klipper yet is because then the display on my #Creality #CR6SE will be useless, and I currently don't have a touchscreen for my #RaspberryPi.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@koz @3dprinting

I would also be careful to buy them because of the small community. Even with my #Creality #CR6SE, the community is small, and the lack of community support has made things difficult.

I can't comment on their resin printers because I am not into resin printing.

@koz

I agree.

I am, however, not limited by my hotend at the moment, more by my printer.

The only reason why I am still running #Octoprint and #Marlin is because I don't have the accelerometer yet to tune #InputShaping in #Klipper. Once I get it, I will make the switch, because until then, the effort won't be "worth" it because my improvement might be minimal except for a slight increase in speed.

The reason why I haven't upgraded my hotend yet is because of the cost and also the due to the weird shape and form of the #Creality #CR6SE due to the load cell bed leveling sensor

Replacing the hotend won't be worth it until after I switch to Klipper because I can probably hit between 15 and 20 mm^3/s flow rate.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@thevowel

How often do you actually need a larger #3dprinter? I have a #CR6SE, and only 1 of our 10 prints is actually the size of the bed. Sometimes, I wonder if speed would be better than a larger bed slinger.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@pierrenick

If I could go back 2 years and knew everything I knew now, I would not buy my #CR6SE just due to my load cell peoblems, but then I would have bought an #Ender3 and then I would rather just buy the CR6 SE again.

As a 100% beginner at the time, the fact that I turned my printer on and it leveled automatically made my life so much easier. I never understood the bed leveling problems with the #Ender3 because I have never done manual leveling in #Marlin and also won't know how.

So, although I am hesitant, this move might have been good by #Prusa if they solved all of these issues.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

@pierrenick

The load cell also has some interference problems. The heat and current draw from the hotend affect the accuracy. In the official #firmware, this is still a problem. The #Creality #CR6SE community firmware has solved this by turning off the hotend just as the nozzle touches the bed. Which improves the accuracy. I assume #Prusa has solved this and also did it.

The load cell is also sensitive to bowden tube setups. Because the hotend is basically on a lever, the bowden tube can press down on the hotend in different corners of the printer, resulting in incorrect measurements.

I solved this using the CR6 SE #Discord community to recalibrate the trigger level by using a scale and adjusting the z-offset, but the interference is still there.

I hope #Prusa has solved all of this, and this would also expand the support for load cells.

@3dprinting #3dprinting