Tuning #LinearAdvance also only involves a single parameter, the K-value.

Tuning the z-offset actually has a few, which you could use moving from a 0.4mm nozzle to a 0.6mm nozzle.

Firstly, you bed needs to be level, or trammed. Your #3dprinter needs to be leveled to ensure that it corrects the flex and warping of your bed.

Secondly, there is the z-fade, recently introduced in #Marline #firmware and other firmware like #klipper

The z-fade allows for a layer-by-layer fade of the correction of the leveling and tramming, to ease out the correction as it becomes less prominent as the layers increase.

I can clearly see this in my prints, with layers below 1.2mm z-height being ugly and layers above that near perfect. As the effects of a non-level bed becomes less prominent.

Thus, it is clear that #LinearAdvance is a good place to start when making this switch. But if you are just starting to tune your printer, rather start with the z-offset and bed-leveling.

@3dprinting #3dprinting

Often the first thing to calibrate by many is the z-offset. This is not wrong, but because I already have my z-offset so well tuned for my 0.4mm nozzle at 0.21mm, it isn't too wrong to just use this for my 0.6mm nozzle.

Some would notice that 0.21 is just more than half of 0.4, so 0.3 or something in that range could work for a 0.6mm nozzle.

Could be, but I have found that z-offset is no perfect science and it is just one of those things that you need to test.

But because of the effects and improvements due to #LinearAdvance, I like to tune it first. Because, on a single line you would not notice an incorrect z-offset at all, except if it is completely wrong and you get no bed adhesion at all.

So by eliminating that factor, you can then safely tune the z-offset after Linear Advance

First layer and z-offset by #TeachingTech on #YouTube

https://teachingtechyt.github.io/calibration.html#firstlayer

@3dprinting #3dprinting