Behind any vineyard and its wines is a tractor (or three). Three generations of the Morisoli family have farmed this bit of Napa dirt, only recently starting their own label. It was a pleasure to meet Chris Morisoli, who is driving the tractors more and more, when his dad, Gary, lets him. If anyone out there happens to still have the 2002 Elyse, it’s a terrific wine.

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